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    Part I 
    Cleared for Landing 
     
    by Mad Dog 
     
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    Until now Id been used to starving on
    flights and eating candy bars when I landed because I have a firm policy of not putting
    anything in my mouth that I A) cant identify and, B) isnt a color found in
    nature. | 
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         Traveling can be
    a disorienting experience when you cross time zones, oceans, and that person sitting next
    to you on the plane who thinks his elbow can be in your side for 12 straight hours without
    your saying a word. Maybe you didnt notice, but that was Rod Serling standing
    at the entrance to the boarding ramp, even though he was trying to disguise himself by
    wearing a blue airline employee uniform that was in style for five minutes in 1958. Maybe.
    Obviously whoever it is that designs these uniforms either wants to make sure there will
    be no testosterone on board ("Please check all excess testosterone with the Sky Cap
    before boarding") or just plain hates women.      This
    particular flight, from San Francisco to Paris, was an eye-opener. In a non-paid plug for
    Air France I have to say they disproved one long held belief of minethat the
    Mile-High Club is a myth. Just kidding. Unfortunately. No, it turns out what they really
    disproved is that airline food is inedibletheirs was damned good. We feasted on
    terrine, duckling or salmon, camembert, good bread, flan, and free wine. Even seconds on
    the bread and wine. Hell, until now Id been used to starving on flights and eating
    candy bars when I landed because I have a firm policy of not putting anything in my mouth
    that I A) cant identify and, B) isnt a color found in nature. 
         They also proved that the myth of the sexy flight attendant is
    true, something which, at the risk of incurring the wrath of flight attendants everywhere,
    I didnt believe. No, it wasnt just the accents, though that was a big help. It
    was the person in Human Resources (which in a nod to old world charm they probably still
    call Personnel) who laid down the law that only women with slight overbites could work for
    Air France. Someone give that person the Nobel Peace Prizethanks to him or her I
    dreamed peacefully the entire flight, even when I wasnt sleeping. The flight
    stewards, or guys as they like to be called, may have had overbites too, but to be honest
    I didnt pay any attention. 
     
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    I slept all the way to Rennes, waking up at the
    end to say a prayer to St. Samsonite (the patron saint of travelers and jumping gorillas)
    that my luggage was still there. And full. I think I like this country already. | 
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         The sound system
    on the plane was better (electronics instead of pushing airwhat a concept!), the
    seats were a touch more comfortable though just as cramped, and the movies, well, they
    sucked as usual. But that was okay, they put me to sleep, which made waking up to a flight
    attendant with a slight overbite leaning over me murmuring in French that it was time to
    wake up a very nice bienvenu. True, it would have been nicer had the other 400
    people not been on the flight, but Im trying not to be too picky.     
    Im headed to St-Malo, a seaside vacation town in Bretagne on the English Channel.
    Bretagne is French for Brittany. Français is French for French. Ill be using
    as much français as possible through this because I want to get into the swing of
    French life (la vie française) during my two-month stay. Well, that and Id
    like to prove that three years of High School French, a $40 Berlitz CD-ROM, and a French
    For Travelers phrasebook that thinks "Je crois que je suis perdu"
    (I think Im lost) is actually a good thing to say to a stranger in a foreign country
    can actually pay off. 
         I take the train to Rennes, where my friend Vincent, who got
    me into this, and his mother pick me up, saving me from taking a second train to St-Malo.
    Not that it would have been a problem since I slept all the way to Rennes anyway, waking
    up at the end to say a prayer to St. Samsonite (the patron saint of travelers and jumping
    gorillas) that my luggage was still there. And full. I think I like this country already. 
     
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    I sat in his kitchen, still disoriented,
    drinking tea from a soup bowl and eating rock hard pieces of baguette with jam while
    listening to this retired physics professor tell memostly in incomprehensible
    Frenchabout his life teaching mécanique physique. | 
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         We had dinner in
    a restaurant that specialized in choucroute (sauerkraut and sausages), joined by
    Mme. Lelievres dog. Dogs, you see, are welcome in restaurants in France. Well, the
    ones that dont serve them, anyway. Just kidding. After all, this is France, not
    Korea.      By the time we got to St-Malo and I settled into my
    small apartment by the sea, I was more than ready to crash. Funny how being totally turned
    around by time zones, drinking wine, and filling your stomach can do that to a person. I
    tried to check my email but things were being strange and I wasnt in a state of mind
    to figure them out. I climbed into the bottom bunk bedWhat? No cowboy and Indian
    flannel sheets?and crashed. 
         The next morning, no sooner had I opened the outer doors to
    let some light in than Paul, my landlord, appeared and invited me upstairs for petit
    déjeuner. "Its always fascinating to see how other cultures do things
    differently than we do," I thought while sitting in his kitchen, still disoriented,
    drinking tea from a soup bowl and eating rock hard pieces of baguette with jam while
    listening to this retired physics professor tell memostly in incomprehensible
    Frenchabout his life teaching mécanique physique. 
         It wasnt until a few days later that I discovered these
    quaint customs were just Paul being Paul. His wife, Miréne, you see, served me tea in
    mugs while apologizing profusely for my being fed stale baguette. And she hasnt used
    the words mécanique and physique in the same sentence to me yet. 
    Yet. 
    [ Previous ] [ A Mad Dog in Bretagne - Part II ]   [INDEX] 
    Read
    more Mad Dog on the Road 
     
    ©1999 Mad Dog Productions, Inc. All
    Rights Reserved. 
    These columns appear in better newspapers across the country. Read
    them in English, they make more sense that way. 
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